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Winter Citrus: A Field Guide

When the rest of the market goes grey, the citrus stall lights up. A short guide to eating the cold months brightly.

By Priya Anand · · 5 min read

An assortment of winter citrus fruits cut to show their coloured flesh

Citrus is the great consolation of winter cooking. While everything else is roots and brassicas, the citrus stall offers blood oranges, bergamot, kumquats, and grapefruit in colours that have no business appearing in January.

Know your oranges

Blood oranges are the showpiece — sweet-tart with a berry edge and that startling crimson flesh. Navels are reliable and seedless. Cara caras sit between the two: pink, low-acid, almost floral.

For our bright citrus breakfast salad we mix all three over coconut yoghurt, because the contrast in colour and sharpness is half the pleasure.

Cut citrus and berries arranged on a pale ceramic plate
Cut citrus and berries arranged on a pale ceramic plate

Use the whole fruit

Zest before you juice, always — the oils in the peel carry more perfume than the juice does. A whole-orange cake like our olive oil and citrus loaf uses both, so nothing of that brightness is wasted.

And segment over a bowl. The juice that escapes is the best part of any citrus dish; catch it and spoon it back.

  • winter
  • citrus
  • seasonal eating